USIA presents the exhibition “Light and Form: Dialogues between Art and Jewelry”, a sensory and aesthetic experience where contemporary art meets the rich tradition of Portuguese royal jewelry.
In this unique exhibition, carefully selected artworks engage in a dialogue with the museum’s permanent jewelry collection, revealing subtle — and sometimes surprising — connections in color, shape, and symbolism. The curators propose a gemological reading of the collection, highlighting how the properties of gemstones — such as light refraction, chromatic purity, or crystalline structure — find echoes in painting, sculpture, installation, and other visual art forms.
Visitors are invited to explore how the intense brilliance of a diamond inspires a light sculpture, how the saturated green of an emerald is mirrored in an expressionist canvas, or how the symmetrical elegance of a royal tiara reemerges in the geometry of a contemporary installation.
Each pairing — between artwork and jewel — offers a new perspective: whether through the lens of gemology, which reveals how nature gives color and form to precious stones, or through artistic interpretation, which transforms these forms into expressions of emotion and imagination.
More than a celebration of beauty, Light and Form is a reflection on the enduring symbolic power of jewelry and its lasting influence on the visual arts — a testament to how the raw matter of the Earth becomes eternal inspiration.
The Royal Treasure Museum is one of Portugal’s most recent and significant cultural institutions, located in the west wing of the National Palace of Ajuda, in Lisbon. Inaugurated in June 2022, the museum was created to house and permanently exhibit the extraordinary collection of Portuguese royal jewelry, which had previously been dispersed and largely inaccessible to the public.
The museum’s creation fulfills a long-standing vision: to restore the Ajuda Palace to its original function as a royal residence and a space for the ceremonial representation of monarchical power, by reuniting the treasures that once served the Portuguese Royal House.
Housed within a modern, highly secure structure, the museum spans over 40 rooms and is organized into thematic sections. These allow visitors to explore not only the material richness of the Crown Jewels, but also the historical, symbolic, and artistic contexts in which these objects were created and used.
The collection includes iconic pieces such as crowns, parures, orders of chivalry, gold and silver coins, liturgical objects, diplomatic gifts, and commissions from major European goldsmiths. Together, they reflect the Portuguese monarchy’s connections with other royal houses and Portugal’s role in global trade networks, especially during the colonial era.
Beyond its aesthetic and historical significance, the Royal Treasure Museum also serves as a testimony to the enduring relationship between power, prestige, and heritage — inviting the public to reflect on the construction of national identity through the splendor and symbolism of its royal jewels.
The Portuguese crown jewels have a fascinating history that dates back to the time of the monarchy in Portugal. Over the centuries, these jewels have not only symbolized the power and wealth of the crown but have also played important roles in royal ceremonies, diplomacy, and even as symbols of national identity.
The collection of Portuguese crown jewels includes precious pieces such as crowns, tiaras, necklaces, brooches, and other royal ornaments. One of the most well-known pieces is the Royal Crown of Portugal, used on various ceremonial occasions by Portuguese monarchs over the centuries. This crown is a symbol of royal power and is adorned with precious stones, reflecting the splendor of royalty.
In addition to the Royal Crown, there are also other significant jewels, such as the Collar of the Order of Saint James of the Sword and the Crown of Queen Saint Isabel. Each of these pieces not only holds immense material value but also carries stories and traditions that connect the present with Portugal’s glorious past.
Throughout Portugal’s history, the crown jewels were often reconfigured and adapted according to the tastes and needs of the kings and queens who wore them. They have witnessed crucial moments in Portuguese history, from the Age of Discoveries to modern times.
After the abolition of the monarchy in Portugal in 1910, the crown jewels were transferred to the Ajuda National Palace in Lisbon, where they are now carefully preserved and displayed to the public. These pieces are not only testimonies to the wealth and artistry of Portuguese goldsmithing but also represent a living link to the country’s history and national identity.
The jewels of the kings and queens of Portugal are part of a rich historical and cultural legacy, reflecting the splendor of the Portuguese monarchy, especially between the 15th and 19th centuries. These pieces were far more than mere adornments: they symbolized authority, prestige, faith, and a connection with the divine, being worn at coronations, weddings, diplomatic visits, and other solemn ceremonies.
Unlike some European monarchies, Portugal did not possess a fixed set of “Crown Jewels.” Instead, jewels were often the personal property of the monarchs, acquired through inheritance, marriage, or commission. This meant that the collection varied greatly over the centuries, with pieces being sold, melted down, redesigned, or given as diplomatic gifts.
Among the most notable pieces of the Portuguese royal heritage are:
The Royal Crown of Portugal Despite being the ultimate symbol of monarchical power, the Portuguese Royal Crown had not been worn on the head since the 17th century — by tradition, kings were crowned symbolically, without directly wearing the crown. The current piece, made of gold and red velvet, was created in the 18th century and displayed during oaths and important ceremonies.
The Sceptre and the Orb Used in acclamation ceremonies, they represented the monarch’s earthly and spiritual power. The sceptre often featured ornaments with crosses and coats of arms, reinforcing the connection between the monarchy and the Catholic Church.
Queens’ Jewellery The queens consort of Portugal owned their own often sumptuous collections of jewels, including tiaras, necklaces, earrings, bracelets, and brooches. Queen Maria I, Queen Carlota Joaquina, and Queen Amélia, for example, were known for wearing luxurious jewels made with diamonds, pearls, emeralds, and sapphires. Many of these pieces were diplomatic gifts or inherited from foreign royal houses such as the French or Spanish.
Religious and Devotional Jewels It was common for monarchs and queens to commission or wear jewels with religious motifs — such as crucifixes, reliquaries, and medallions bearing images of saints. Queen Saint Isabel, who was canonized, is often depicted wearing a crown and modest jewels, reflecting her devotion.
With the proclamation of the Republic in 1910, the Portuguese royal family was exiled, and many royal jewels were taken abroad or disappeared over time. Some were sold to support the exiled family, while others remained in Portugal and were incorporated into the State’s collection. Today, several of these pieces are preserved and displayed at the National Palace of Ajuda in Lisbon, home to the Royal Treasure, inaugurated as a museum in 2022.
Even though many have been lost, sold, or transformed, these jewels still represent a material and symbolic heritage of one of Europe’s oldest empires.
The National Palace of Ajuda, in Lisbon, is a landmark that witnessed decisive events for Portugal and Brazil, spanning the reigns of King José I, Queen Maria II, and the Brazilian Emperor Dom Pedro II.
After the earthquake of 1755, which destroyed the Ribeira Palace, King José I housed the royal court in a temporary wooden structure known as the Real Barraca da Ajuda. In 1794, a fire destroyed the building, leading to the construction of the current Palace of Ajuda, begun in 1796.
In 1807, Napoleon Bonaparte threatened to invade Portugal. To safeguard the monarchy, the Prince Regent Dom João decided to transfer the royal court to Brazil. In November 1807, the royal family left the Palace of Ajuda and set sail for Rio de Janeiro, escorted by the British navy. In Brazil, the court found not only safety but also a rich source of resources. During the colonial period, Portugal had exploited vast deposits of alluvial gold and mined gold, especially in Minas Gerais. Rough diamonds were also extracted, mainly in the Diamantina region, along with smaller quantities of emeralds and topazes. Beyond gemstones, colonial trade generated immense profits with sugar cane, cotton, cocoa, and coffee, tropical products highly prized in Europe. The court’s presence in Rio de Janeiro facilitated the administration and export of these resources, financing the upkeep of the royal family, as well as cultural and military investments.
After Brazil’s independence in 1822, the Portuguese throne was occupied by Queen Maria II, daughter of King Pedro IV of Portugal (the future Emperor Pedro I of Brazil). The Palace of Ajuda once again became the official royal residence and the stage for regal ceremonies, maintaining its political and symbolic importance.
Decades later, Dom Pedro II, Emperor of Brazil, visited Portugal between 1871 and 1872. Received with honors at the Palace of Ajuda, the visit symbolized the reunion of two branches of the House of Braganza: the European and the American. It reinforced cultural and political ties between Portugal and Brazil, recalling that the very same palace had been the point of departure for his family centuries earlier.
Thus, the Palace of Ajuda holds within its walls the echoes of three decisive moments: the height of absolutism under King José I, the flight of the Portuguese court to Brazil with its gold, diamonds, and precious gemstones, and the diplomatic reunion with Dom Pedro II — marking the historical cycle that united Lisbon and Rio de Janeiro.
The Ajuda National Palace - Royal Treasure Museum
Palácio Nacional da Ajuda, Calçada da Ajuda, 1300-012 Lisboa
Contact Curator. Francisco Lacerda > info@usia.co.uk
Contact USIA Team > lisbon@usia.co.uk
Website > usia.co.uk/tesouroreal
Organization, Production: United State Of International Artists
Communication: United State Of International Artists and Partners
Technical Support: Royal Treasure Museum
Texts: United State Of International Artists
Curator: Francisco Lacerda
Graphic Design: United State Of International Artists
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